The Tenderness of Young Goat’s Meat

A serve of sate Barongan

At Sepanjang street, Sidoarjo, you may possibly bump into this view: a pushcart display of a goat meat. The goat is about still intact, fresh, and small (that means it is still young). Sweet-scented smoke that signifies a grill emerges. You’re quite monk if you don’t drool in seconds. Warung Sate Barongan Pak Uniq (Mr. Uniq’s Barongan Brochettes Stall), that’s the name of this stand, open from noon until night.

For you who don’t know yet, “sate” or “satai” is small pieces of meat roasted on skewer. This is a common food in Indonesia. Meanwhile, I cannot figure out what “barongan” is. May be it likes barongan in the context of Reog Ponorogo’s art: someone who used to eat everything.

Coincidently, in this food stall, you can eat (almost) everything too. Its service is semi buffet. The customer may take cooked rice and chips in the corner of the stall room, as much as he wants! So, the customer with a big appetite would be spoiled here.

Then how is reputation of this stall? Since I visited it only once, I don’t know precisely. But occasionally the artists and high functionaries of East Java took a lunch or dine here, like Arif Afandi (ex Surabaya Deputy Mayor), Butet Kertarajasa (national artist), etc. That’s what I heard from Uniq himself.

Uniq applies a modern-kitchen concept, i.e. set the kitchen in the frontage. Thus they cook the young goat, its main menu, publicly. By that, the customer is always able to verify the quality of meat, spices, and technique. S/he can also choose which parts of the goat desired to be brochetted.

The flavor of young goat meat is not too different from a beef, according to my tongue. Just, beware if you have a hypertension (which will give you a little dizzy after you eat any goat meat). Nevertheless, some said the meat of goat is a kind of aphrodisiac, and could be jack up man’s sexual capability.

Although there is no clinical research yet supported such statement, many have believed it without question. “They devoured numerous skewers of young goat particularly in favor of the beloved wife. For me, I think it works,” claimed Ibnu, one of Uniq stall’s loyal customer who dwell in Sepanjang.

Well, of course we don’t have to believe that only for tasting the young goat’s grilled meat. This is good, end of story. [photo by Iksan]

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About Ihsan Maulana

Got a master degree in IAIN Sunan Ampel Surabaya and PhD in UIN Jakarta. He is a researcher and was an activist. Iksan is second winner of The Scientific Writing Competition 1999 which held by Islamic-school Bata-bata, second winner of The Pamekasan Scientific Writing Contest 2000, first winner of The Surabaya Scientific Writing Competition 2003, second nominee of The Ahmad Wahid Award 2005 which held by Freedom Institute, JIL and Forum Mahasiswa Ciputat. Iksan is now a lecturer.

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